I mentioned in yesterdays blog that because of the timings and the apparent dearth of campsites in this part of Spain, we managed to tick off only 45 miles against our still massive target. I also mentioned that the debilitating heat made them super, super challenging (of course not the hardest yet or even in the top three but definitely something of a “straightener”) and they bashed any lingering complacency (inevitable after 5 1/2 days standing still in Sanguesa!) out of us. What I failed to mention is that Camping Bardenas is clearly something of a local foodie destination. We have by some distance the best meal of our trip….it is proper proper food. Marc swears it is the best Sea Bass he has ever had (I haven’t the heart to remind him how far away he is from the sea right now) and my steak….well that’s best left between me and the steak!
We decide over dinner that because of the heat, and the 80 miles we have to cycle tomorrow and the daunting 5500 feet of climbing (for those of you not “down” with the cycling lingo this is usually termed “a lot” even without panniers and it certainly doesn’t take account of the previous 750 miles) that we should leave super early, cycle when it’s cool and stop when it’s not.
The alarm duly goes off at 530 and, doing our level best not to wake anyone else up (fail!) we head off around 7am.
We are in deepest darkest central Spain now and the scenery and the terrain is changing again.
When we pause for lunch it’s around 1230 which is the exact time we previously agreed we should stop, take a siesta, and then start again at 200pm earliest. We of course don’t do that!
The Garmin suggests that the hottest temperature on our ride today was 97. I just don’t believe that but I do know it was insane! On the many, many, many, many climbs we can only ride for maybe 3 or 4 minutes before we have to stop literally to stop ourselves from “cooking”. It’s slow, exhausting work but we grind our way through it again and again. We of course made a point of carrying extra food today and lots and lots of water. Conservatively I would say seee we both took on more than 3 litres of agua today.
There is not much “down” to be had today but when we do drop into a small village (absolutely no idea, should have written it down) and see a bar open we decide to stop for “grande caffès con leche”. We don’t stop for long (tbh we don’t get made to feel super welcome here …just saying!) and so head off after about 15 minutes and it’s immediately apparent that the weather is on the turn.
What follows is a localised storm of almost biblical proportions. There is thunder and lightening, torrential rain, hail, massive winds…..it’s a full on “hullabaloo”. Given we are completely in the middle of nowhere and very exposed we simply have no choice but to keep pushing forward. Very quickly we are soaked, freezing and no longer living our best lives….it would obviously be high maintenance to complain about the heat and the cold in the same blog but I mean for goodness sake….find a happy medium.
We roll into a tiny hamlet and take shelter(ish) on someones doorstep. Honesty the video does not do the storm justice….we cycled through the very worst of it. It is easily the worst weather I have EVER cycled in.
Finally, freezing cold and soaking wet we roll into Camping Fuente de La Teja. As campsites go it seems to have all our key bases covered….somewhere to pitch the tent (nice big pitches but very close to a busy main road) some food (important) and some cold beer (essential!)
Final thing to say tonight is a reminder that we ( when I say “we” I do of course mean Marc, he clearly has the best face for radio) will be LIVE (yes LIVE!!!) on BBC Radio Hereford and Worcester tomorrow at 740. Yes I know it’s Sunday and yes I know that’s early but it would be so great to know you were listening in….and please do tell all your friends to time in to!!
Final, final bit I promise….the showers here shall henceforth in perpetuity be known as “absolutely best ever”.
Ok I lied….the final, final, final thing is to contextualise the photo of our tired and somewhat ripe feet (thank god there is no smellivision!!) showing them off resplendent in our Prostate Cancer Uk socks courtesy of our absent colleague “Biggest Dan”